Camera
The sky isn’t the limit: Six tips to capture intimate landscapes and smaller scenes
With a cloud-free sunrise, I focussed on this telephoto detail of glowing wave sea spray at the typically wide-angle friendly Bombo Headland, New South Wales.
ISO 100 | F18 | 1/5 sec |
Bold sunrises. Moody clouds. Radiant sunstars.
These elements often come to mind when we think about landscape photography. And for many years, they’re what I chased trip after trip.
But I’ve found that coveting and waiting for glorious skies vastly limits the type of landscape photos we can capture. Expectations stifle our creativity and lead to disappointment when the conditions fall short or fizzle out.
Landscape photography can be (and is) so much more than golden rays and brilliant colors. It’s about capturing the essence of an environment and immortalizing defining details in the landscape.
So what if you simply excluded the sky altogether?
“Expectations stifle our creativity and lead to disappointment when the conditions fall short or fizzle out.”
While I still chase bold skies when they occur – they’re worth capturing for a reason – I no longer let the state of the sky dictate my photography outings.
In fact, smaller scenes have formed some of my most striking compositions. Compared to sweeping vistas at scenic lookouts, these more intimate moments are less likely to be replicated by other photographers.
So here are six tips to help you expand your creativity with fresh compositions and make the sky no longer the limit.
Follow the periphery of your perception
This first tip may seem a bit pretentious. But it’s a crucial place to begin.
I recently read a passage from Peter Dombrovskis (a famed Australian photographer from the 1980s) that crystallized this concept for me:
“My most productive days are when I move through the landscape with an attitude of acceptance – of leaving myself open to all possibilities rather than expecting to find anything in particular.
I look ahead to guide my feet over rocks and roots, but images are more likely to insinuate themselves from the edges of my view, the periphery of my perception.”
The takeaway for your photography? When you remove preconceived ideas that anchor your creativity, you’ll begin to appreciate the smaller scenes around you. You’ll notice quieter moments beyond the epic seascapes, grand vistas and verdant forests.
Slow down and take notice of underfoot scenes, such as these confetti-like myrtle beech leaves at Cradle Mountain, Tasmania.
ISO 200 | F14 | 1/4 sec |
Your eye may catch intriguing shapes, contrasting colors or patches of light. And when you do, you’ve already gifted yourself the attention and mental space to further follow that thread of interest. You might move closer, shift angles or return later under different light.
So rather than entering environments hoping for ‘ideal’ conditions, I now (try to) enter each environment with an open mind. I allow myself the freedom to wander, to entertain the potential of smaller scenes that I would have otherwise ignored and overlooked.
Simplify the scene and fill the frame
An open sky often serves as a largely clean, distraction-free compositional element. So when you don’t include one, you may be looking down or across at environments overflowing with complexity.
Herein lies a central challenge of intimate landscapes. Chaotic elements, like messy foliage or incongruent textures, can combine to undermine the sense of harmony in your image.
A simplified frame of ghost gum trunks contrasting against the red rock of Karijini National Park, Western Australia.
ISO 160 | F16 | 1/3 sec |
So, when you find smaller scenes too overwhelming, do what you can to simplify them. Focus on key details, isolate defining features, and obscure others.
You might simplify a woodland scene by highlighting shapely branches while excluding the undergrowth. Or, for rocky terrain, you might switch to a telephoto lens to fill the frame with striking rock patterns.
To help create order amongst the complexity, here are some examples of what you might focus on in different settings:
- Forests: Compressed trunk columns or fractal branches spreading out
- Deserts: Sweeping lines and overlapping layers
- Rivers: Long-exposure patterns as streams cascade down
- Coastlines: Repeating pebble or stone textures
- Lakes: Smooth ripples and reflected golden hour light
As mentioned, smaller and simpler scenes have formed some of my strongest compositions. By filling the frame with key details, you’ll walk away with a more personal photo to call your own.
Don’t stand still: Shift your position and angle
A sure-fire technique to help you notice and capture smaller scenes? Gain some height and then zoom in.
So look for natural features that can provide a higher elevation, such as a boulder, a fallen trunk or a hill. Or venture out to a lookout and use a tighter focal length to shoot down onto the landscape.
Sometimes, even an extra foot or two in elevation will significantly alter the composition or enable you to exclude distracting sky patches. You’ll be better positioned to shoot across the scene (rather than up at it) and experience the landscape around you from a fresh perspective.
After waiting for the afternoon sun to cloak a distant mountain in shade, it illuminated these shapely branches at Fiordland National Park, New Zealand.
ISO 100 | F10 | 1/30 sec |
Similarly, once you’ve noticed a compelling formation, scout your surroundings to find the strongest angle. For example, I captured one of my favorite smaller scenes of a beech tree in Fiordland, New Zealand. Gaining height allowed me to position the branches in front of a distant mountain. So that when the sun fell, it illuminated the leaves against the valley shrouded in shadow.
When you’re on a well-worn track, you’ll likely only see a fraction of the potential frames on offer. So, go explore and discover new angles to shoot from. But be careful – and considerate. If the area looks pristine or delicate, leave it that way. No photo is worth ruining the scene in which it was taken.
One last benefit from a technical level: In some situations, gaining height may enable you to shoot perpendicularly onto the scene rather than skim across it. This will reduce the necessary depth of field and help to minimize focus stacking. (Which can be tedious and is one of my least favorite parts of photography.)
Challenge yourself and make it fun
For many years, I struggled to break free from legacy ways of seeing the landscape.
So here’s one technique to help you capture smaller scenes: set a challenge for yourself. It’s counterintuitive, but introducing more ‘rules’ will force you into a different mindset and may allow you to view the landscape anew.
When you’re struggling to compose intimate landscapes, try a fresh approach. Here are a few rules that you may create for yourself:
- Set restrictions: Work within a 20-minute timer or limit yourself to 10 frames
- Go handheld: Leave the tripod behind and bump up the ISO if needed
- Set a schedule: Take a photo every 5 minutes (great for daytime hikes)
- Stick to a theme: Perhaps textures, colors, parallel lines or what’s underfoot
Remember, the purpose of the challenge isn’t to walk away with ideal images. It’s to get you to look at the landscape differently. To experiment without the paralysis of perfection.
The combination of low tide and an ever-shifting stream carved out these braiding sand patterns on sunset at Wilsons Promontory, Victoria.
ISO 100 | F16 | 1/6 sec |
Afterward, go back through your images and take note of your favorite scenes. Often, one or two (or more) frames will jump out and resonate with you.
Once you’ve settled on a frame with potential, consider how you might improve the image even further. A tighter crop? Placing the subject off-center? Or returning under soft light?
After the challenge is over, then it’s time to revisit your favorite frames with your tripod to make the best image you can.
Document smaller scenes with your smartphone
With unfathomably powerful computers (and cameras) in our pockets, modern photographers live in an age of abundance.
So, while our devices can be overwhelming and distracting (see tip #1), they also equip us with tools that past generations could only dream of, like live cloud tracking, detailed satellite maps, and a capable camera to take snapshots of promising compositions.
When I’m out exploring, I’ll often reach for my phone before I reach for my camera. The intentionality needed to set up a tripod, attach the right lens and dial in the settings is often a barrier to creation. (This is why I enjoyed low-friction shooting with the handheld Fujifilm X100V so much.)
An example of using my smartphone to scrapbook potential compositions. Left: A quick phone snapshot to document the stripes and colors of snow gums at Falls Creek, Victoria. Right: The final image after waiting for the midday sun to become partly diffused behind a cloud.
Beyond weather tracking and location planning, my phone serves as a core part of my photography workflow in two ways:
As a scrapbook of potential compositions: It’s particularly helpful when I spend multiple days exploring a new area. In the evenings, I’ll scroll through my snapshots and review the day’s scenes with fresh eyes. Then, I can return to refine and strengthen standout scenes with my camera. The process also helps to prime my mind to look for similar but perhaps stronger compositions later in the trip.
To test telephoto focal lengths: Zoom in until you fill the screen with your preferred composition, even if it’s beyond the 3x or 5x lens, and take a snapshot. Then, in my iPhone photo library, I can swipe up on the photo to inspect the precise focal length. This helps me determine what lens I’ll need and whether I need to attach a teleconverter.
Sweat the small things: Miscellaneous tips
Here are some small – yet just as impactful – tips for compelling, intimate landscapes:
Composition is still key. Even when there’s no sky, try to retain some breathing room around your subjects and carefully position elements to balance visual weight across the frame.
Experiment with light. If time permits, see what it’s like to capture the scene under different conditions. High-contrast scenes may look more flattering under soft light, while low-contrast scenes may benefit from harsh light.
Be mindful of what is (and isn’t) in focus. When shooting close scenes, select a small aperture (such as F16) and take at least five images, focused in the center and each corner, to help you focus-stack the scene.
Rather than including everything (and potentially diluting the visual story), this tight detail captures the essence of a much larger cascade at MacKenzie Falls, Victoria.
ISO 100 | F20 | 1/8 sec |
Fine-tune your frame for a clean view. Sometimes, shifting your camera by a few centimeters can evoke a more pleasing sense of order in your scene.
Lastly, stop looking for perfection when it comes to smaller scenes and intimate landscapes. You won’t find it, and you’ll only set yourself up for disappointment.
Nature is complex, raw and unstructured. So, as you capture skyless scenes, remember that not every image will be a portfolio-worthy shot. The point isn’t to produce perfection but to capture scenes that resonate with you on a personal level.
When the sky isn’t the limit, you allow yourself the freedom to fail. To look for interesting yet imperfect scenes. To experiment with new angles, focus on fresh features and refine your approach to make more meaningful photos.
About the Author
Mitch Green is an Australian landscape photographer. He can be found on his website, on Instagram or by the beach at 5 am waiting for sunrise.
Camera
Gear of the Year – Richard's choice: Leica D-Lux8
There’s a lot of gloom surrounding cameras and photography, in the past year or so. The devastating impact of smartphones on mass-market cameras seems to be being followed by a wave of AI-generated images that threaten to wash photography away as a creative form, if you believe those prognosticators with half-empty glasses. And yet it’s hard to think of a year in which I’ve found it so difficult to choose a piece of gear to call out, because so many of them have been so good.
Having chosen Nikon’s Z8 last year, the obvious decision this time round would be Canon’s EOS R5 II: a camera that’s almost unbelievably good at almost anything you might ask of it. The Nikon’s Z6III’s performance comes with a small footnote, but overall it’s also sensationally capable and costs over 40% less.
On the lens side of things, Sony has made a usefully small full-frame F2.8 zoom and Sigma has developed what is essentially a full-frame version of its 18-35mm F1.8, creating the world’s first AF F1.8 zoom for full-frame in the process. Then there’s Fujifilm: not content with updating probably the best kit lens on the market (albeit with a loss of speed and reach at the long end counteracting the gain of width at the other), it’s also replaced its premium standard zoom with a much smaller, lighter optic.
The Fujifilm 16-50mm F2.8 R LM WR II would probably be my choice in any other year. Its lightweight re-imagining meant it was small enough for me to take on a five-day hike across North Wales, and helped me assemble one of the best galleries I think I’ve ever shot.
“It’s just exciting to see anyone introduce an enthusiast compact”
And yet instead of any of these worthy winners, I’m going to choose a camera whose merits come with some appreciable caveats and that I’ll spend much of this article appearing to criticize.
Let’s get this straight out of the gate: in many respects the Leica D-Lux8 is refresh of a seven year old camera. And its price tag of $1599 lands somewhere between fanciful and absurd.
And yet, in an age when second-hand Panasonic LX3s often attract 40% of their original price on eBay, despite their wonky skin tones, outdated performance and 2008-vintage batteries, it’s just exciting to see anyone introduce an enthusiast compact.
And while the D-Lux8 shares the bulk of its hardware with the LX100 II, it gains one of the most photo-focused user interfaces I’ve had the good fortune to use in the seventeen years I’ve been writing about cameras.
It also gains a much less distracting viewfinder, which I also appreciate, and its AF tracking, while not coming close to the standards of modern mirrorless cameras, is also improved.
There’s a nagging doubt whenever I’ve used a recent D-Lux or LX100 of why it doesn’t feel even more special, given its dial layout and aperture ring suggests it should feel like a smaller X100, but with a zoom. Personally I think the added lag of waiting for the motor-driven zoom to respond helps to distance your input from the camera’s reaction. Or it could just be that the photos don’t look as good, thanks to its less sharp lens, deeper minimum depth-of-field and absence of Film Simulation fairy dust.
But the 8’s new interface is delightfully shutter speed and aperture focused. There aren’t many custom buttons and you don’t need a great many: it’s a good-looking little camera that focuses your attention on taking photos. And that’s something I’ve really missed.
Maybe there’s still time for another blossoming of enthusiast compacts, now they’re starting to find an audience, retrospectively. Or maybe I just need to accept that my own preferences don’t match those of the wider market.
But even if the D-Lux8 doesn’t herald a new Spring for the serious compact, it’s not a bad note for the category to go out on. Price aside, it’s a lovely little camera.
Leica D-Lux8 sample gallery
Camera
Canon makes Super35 global shutter sensor available to third parties
Canon’s LI5070SA sensor delivers 4K at up to 60p with no rolling shutter, with Canon suggesting ‘Cinema’ as one of its potential applications.
Image: Canon |
Canon has made a 4K/60-capable Super35 (∼APS-C) video sensor with global shutter available to third-party buyers.
The 10.3MP sensor added to the product page of its industrial equipment and semiconductor business unit is 27.4 x 15.3mm, making it a 1.34x crop, relative to a full-frame stills camera, but in a roughly 16:9 aspect ratio.
Its 4288 x 2398 pixel count is clearly designed for delivering 4K footage. We’d usually expect Canon to have already offered it in a camera, if it planned to, before offering it to external users.
Canon sold a 4K/60 Super35 ‘GS’ global shutter version of its EOS C700 camera, back in 2017, though available specs suggest its sensor was slightly smaller, so presumably wasn’t the same as the one now being offered to external companies. Notably, Canon claimed its dynamic range was one stop lower than the progressive scan Super35 chip in the regular C700 model. There’s still a chance this new chip will underpin a successor to the C700 GS.
An image of Canon semiconductor’s LI7080SA sensor: a progressive scan Super35 sensor that closely resembles its global shutter cousin.
Image: Canon |
At present, we’re not aware of any other consumer camera maker using Canon sensors. Specialist industrial / security camera makers such as Illunis have used its sensors to make high-speed and high-resolution cameras for applications such as aerial photography and machine vision applications, but we’ve not seen its 120MP or 250MP APS-H chips in consumer cameras, including those from Canon itself.
Canon said it was developing a DSLR based on its 120MP sensor, back in 2015. Prototypes based on EOS 5DS bodies appeared at trade shows, but no final product ever emerged.
Canon’s semiconductor business also offers a “full-frame” global shutter sensor. Again this has a roughly 16:9 aspect ratio and proposed uses include microscopy, factory automation and traffic surveillance. This sensor has been available since early 2023.
Camera
Gear of the Year – Mitchell's choice: ThinkTank Retrospective 30 V2
The Retrospective 30 V2 is a big ‘ol bag. |
The ThinkTank Retrospective 30 V2 is not a new product by any means, but it’s new to me. Earlier this year, I went looking for a camera bag to replace the one I had since high school and landed on the Retrospective 30; the largest option in ThinkTank’s well-known lineup of canvas shoulder camera bags.
While anyone can make a messenger bag with a few dividers and call it a day, it feels like this bag was really designed and refined by and for photographers. All its velcro flaps can be covered or tucked away to silence them if you don’t want to draw attention to yourself while shooting on the street or at an event like a wedding. The top can be zippered closed for maximum protection or left open to let you quickly access gear, and it has what I think is just the right ratio of open space to built-in organization.
Some of the velcro patches have covers to keep you from ruining a quiet moment by ripping them open.
Photo: Mitchell Clark |
There are also subtle touches that I’ve found really useful: one of the front pockets has a bright red fabric loop that I clip my keys to so I always know where they are, the water bottle pocket can be cinched tight when you’re not using it and there are plenty of places to hook carabiners onto if I need to hang additional gear on the outside of the bag.
I also just like how it looks. The olive green fabric matches the antique-looking metal hardware well.
My favorite thing about this bag, though, is that it’s monstrous. It’s the station wagon – nay, Honda Odyssey – of messenger-style camera bags. I’ve used it to carry two camera bodies, a few lenses, a 14-inch MacBook Pro, an iPad, and a bunch of other bits and bobs like a notebook, an army of SD cards, a Clif bar or two, power adapters and rain jacket. Is that a sign of overpacking? Perhaps, but it’s part of the job; I’m frequently testing out one camera for a review and using another to shoot a sample gallery of some variety.
Even when my camera load isn’t as heavy, I’ve found the Retrospective 30 useful as a commuter. I live in Spokane, Washington, but travel to DPReview’s offices in Seattle relatively frequently. Because I keep my entire photographic life in it – my SD cards, various cables, white balance cards and rolling shutter tester – I can just pick it up and go without having to run around making sure everything I’ll need for the next week is packed.
I took a bit of a chance buying this bag: DPReview was sending me to Japan as a freelancer to cover what ended up being the Panasonic S9 announcement, and I knew the Lowepro bag I’d gotten with my first camera in high school was on its very last legs. I hoped to turn reviewing cameras into my full-time job, but I wasn’t 100% sure I was cut out for it.
Me, very tired, returning home from Japan.
Photo: Mitchell Clark |
If it turned out I wasn’t, the 30 would be way larger than I’d ever need; my personal camera consists of a Fujifilm X-T3 and two lenses, which would get absolutely swallowed by this bag. But if I did end up at DPReview, I worried that a smaller bag might not be able to carry all the gear I assumed I’d be carting around.
I was also concerned about the price at the time: at $240, it’s far from the spendiest bag out there, but I still didn’t feel great telling my wife that I wanted to spend that much on anything when I’d been largely unemployed for the last year – I’d quit my job as a news writer at The Verge in April 2023 to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. I spent some time working at a ski shop after I got back and did various odd jobs, but it’d been a long time since I’d meaningfully contributed to our household’s budget.
But I went for it anyway; the prospect of going on a press trip and juggling cameras in a backpack that’s not at all designed for them seemed like a nightmare. And obviously, it worked out: I’m working at DPReview now, and am reminded pretty much every day that it was a good idea to get something with this much capacity.
Despite its carrying capacity, the Retrospective 30 is a reasonable size to carry around on a photo walk.
Photo: Mitchell Clark |
Of course, I have a few nitpicks. No bag is perfect, which is why the market for them is nearly infinite. I haven’t figured out a graceful way to attach a tripod to it, even one as small as the Peak Design Travel model, the main zipper can be a bit hard to start closing if it’s all the way open, and I needed a tutorial video to figure out how to use the included rain cover. I’d rather the bag’s top flap was made out of waterproof material, though the canvas alone has been enough to protect my gear through short walks in light rain – phew!
The bag can also rub a bit uncomfortably on my hip when it’s fully loaded, but I suspect that’s more of a limitation with the messenger bag form factor as a whole. Realistically, if you’re carrying over 7kg (15+lbs) of gear, you should be doing it on your back, not slung over one shoulder.
Despite my complaints, I still love this bag, and I suspect I’ll continue using it for years to come. The same’s true for the job, by the way – and if I’m lucky enough for that to happen, I’ll have the Retrospective 30 as a reminder of where it all began.
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