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The absolute beginner’s guide to film photography: Color slide film

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The absolute beginner’s guide to film photography: Color slide film
A 1960’s magazine ad for Kodak’s various lines of slide film.
Image courtesy of Nesster

Slide film, otherwise known as positive, reversal or transparency film (and occasionally as ‘E-6’ for its development process), was the choice of ‘pro’ shooters back in the pre-digital film photography days. What’s the difference between slide and print film? Simply, print film produces a negative image, while slide film produces a positive image.

Individual frames of developed slide film can be mounted in sealed sleeves and projected onto a screen. Color slide film produces brighter, more vibrant images than can be produced with color print film. (Black and white slide film exists, but is less common.)

Color slide film produced brighter, more vibrant images than color print film

The downside to slide film is that it’s more difficult to work with. Slide film has very little exposure latitude, meaning the exposure must be spot on to get a good image. Getting positive results (pun intended) requires a camera with proper exposure controls, as opposed to an inexpensive fixed-exposure camera, and a photographer who understands how to meter a scene properly. You have to know what you’re doing to shoot slides, which is why it was (and still is) regarded as a ‘professional’ film.

Climbers approach the alpenglow-illuminated summit of California’s Mt. Shasta. (Kodak Ektachrome 100VS)
Photo: Dale Baskin

An Oversimplified Explanation of Color Slide Film Works

Color slide film works much like color print film, with layers of emulsions, each sensitive to a different color of light, and chemicals called dye couplers. When the film is developed, the interaction of the emulsion and the developer produces a positive image, which is (usually) cut and mounted in plastic or cardboard sleeves which can be fit into a carrier for a slide projector.

All slide film sold today uses the E-6 process. Kodak Kodachrome, a predecessor to E-6 slide film, used a different process (K-14) in which the color dyes were introduced during the development process. Kodachrome was discontinued in 2009 and the last Kodachrome processor shut down in 2010.

Types of Color Slide Film

Photo: Dale Baskin

Because slide film cannot be color-corrected in processing, the film must be balanced for the type of light you are shooting. Today, most slide film is daylight balanced, and it reproduces incandescent lights as a reddish-brown. In the past, it was possible to buy tungsten-balanced slide film (which rendered incandescent lights properly but showed daylight as pale blue), but tungsten slide film is not (currently) available. For indoor, tungsten-lit photography with slide film, you can either use a 85A cooling filter or use a flash.

Because slide film cannot be color-corrected in processing, the film must be balanced for the type of light you are shooting

Among daylight films, there are notable variations in color rendition. Kodakchrome (now discontinued) was known for its warm reds and yellows, while Ektachrome emphasizes colder blue and green tones. Fujichrome Velvia makes colors pop – especially blues and greens, which made it a favorite of landscape photographers.

As with other types of film, the speed of slide film is specified as an ISO (a.k.a. ASA) number. Higher ISO film is more sensitive to light and therefore requires less exposure (smaller aperture or a quicker shutter speed). Color slide film is generally found in 50 to 400 ISO ranges, and the exposure required mimics that of our digital cameras: ISO 50 or 100 film requires a sunny day, while 400 speed film is better suited to cloudy conditions. Film can be ‘pushed’ to a higher speed (if your processing lab will agree to develop it accordingly), but this will generally increase grain.

This candlelight vigil in New York City’s Union Square Park followed the 9/11 attacks on the World Trade Center, and is featured in the book Flags Across America. (Fujichrome Provia 100F)
Photo: Dale Baskin

How Much Does Color Slide Film Cost?

Slide film is the most expensive of all film types. 35mm slide film typically ranges from $15 to $20 per 36-exposure roll. 120-size slide film for medium-format cameras is usually sold in five-roll packs priced in the $45 to $55 range, but many vendors will sell individual rolls for $10-$12.

Developing Color Slide Film

Just as it is pricier than color print film to buy, color slide film is often (but not always) slightly more expensive to process. Conversely, with slide film you don’t have to worry about the cost of prints. Most labs will cut and mount your slides in cardboard or plastic unless you tell them not to. Slide scanning services are also available.

The downside to slide film is that it’s more difficult to work with. Slide film has very little exposure latitude, meaning the exposure must be spot on to get a good image

Like color negative film, color slide film can be developed at home using an E-6 processing kit. Compared to the C-41 color print process, E-6 has more steps and therefore more chemicals. Like C-41 (and unlike B&W developing), E-6 is very sensitive to time and temperature, and getting either one wrong (even slightly) can result in undesirable color shifts. The extra chemicals make E-6 kits more expensive, and while home developing is still cheaper than lab developing, the price difference is narrower than with other types of film.

It used to be possible to make photographic prints from slides using a process called Cibachrome (later known as Ilfochrome), but the supplies are no longer available. Color slide film can be scanned, but it looks best when projected. If you’re scanning, you may as well save money by shooting print film, unless you’re really after the ‘look’ of a particular slide film stock.

Training climbers to extricate themselves from a glacial crevasse on Mt. Rainier’s Nisqually glacier. (Fujichrome Provia 400F)
Photo: Dale Baskin

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Our ‘Absolute beginner’s guide to film photography’ is an educational series of articles focused on demystifying the ins and outs of analog photography. Geared toward those discovering (or re-discovering) film, the series will cover everything from gear, to technique and more. View all of the articles in our guide here.

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Pentax K-1 and K-1 II firmware updates include astrophotography features (depending on where you live)

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Pentax K-1 and K-1 II firmware updates include astrophotography features (depending on where you live)


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Yesterday, Ricoh quietly released firmware 2.50 for its Pentax K-1 and K-1 II DSLRs. However, the features you can expect to gain from this update may depend on your geography.

Ricoh’s English-language firmware pages for the K-1 and K-1 II state that firmware 2.50 delivers “Improved stability for general performance.”

However, astute Pentax users noted that Ricoh’s Japanese-language firmware pages (translation) indicate that the update also includes a limited feature called “Astronomical Photo Assist,” a collection of three new features designed for astrophotography: Star AF, remote control focus fine adjustment, and astronomical image processing.

Star AF is intended to automate focusing on stars when using autofocus lenses. Rather than manually focusing on a bright star and changing your composition, it promises to let you compose your shot and let the camera focus.

Remote control fine adjustment allows users to adjust focus without touching the lens and requires Pentax’s optional O-RC1 remote. Astronomical image processing will enable users to make in-camera adjustments to astrophotography images, including shading correction, fogging correction, background darkness, star brightness, celestial clarity, and fringe correction.

Astronomical image processing on the K-1 and K-1 II will enable users to make in-camera adjustments to astrophotography images, including shading correction, fogging correction, background darkness, star brightness, celestial clarity, and fringe correction.

According to Ricoh, Astronomical Photo Assist is a premium feature that must be purchased and costs ¥11,000 for an activation key (about $70 at current exchange rates).

Although these astrophotography features appear to be Japan-only for now, a Ricoh representative tells us, “Ricoh Imaging Americas confirmed that the premium firmware features for the PENTAX K-1 and PENTAX K-1 Mark II will eventually be available to US customers.”

Firmware update 2.50 for both the K-1 and K-1 II is available for download from Ricoh’s website.



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On this day 2017: Nikon launches D850

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On this day 2017: Nikon launches D850


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As part of our twenty fifth anniversary, we’re looking back at some of the most significant cameras launched and reviewed during that period. Today’s pick was launched seven years ago today* and yet we’re only quite recently stepping out of its shadow.

The Nikon D850 is likely to be remembered as the high watermark of DSLR technology. We may yet still see impressive developments from Ricoh in the future (we’d love to see a significantly upgraded Pentax K-1 III), but the D850 was perhaps the green flash as the sun set on the DSLR as the dominant technology in the market.

Click here to read our Nikon D850 review

Why do we think it was such a big deal? Because it got just about everything right. Its 45MP sensor brought dual conversion gain to high pixel count sensors, meaning excellent dynamic range at base ISO and lower noise at high ISOs. Its autofocus system was one of the best we’ve ever seen on a DSLR: easy to use and highly dependable, with a good level of coverage. And then there was a body and user interface honed by years of iterative refinement, that made it easy to get the most out of the camera.

None of this is meant as a slight towards the other late-period DSLRs but the likes of Canon’s EOS 5DS and 5DSR didn’t present quite such a complete package of AF tracking, daylight DR and low-light quality as the Nikon did. With its ability to shoot at up to 9fps (if you used the optional battery grip), the D850 started to chip away at the idea that high megapixel cameras were specialized landscape and studio tools that would struggle with movement or less-than-perfect lighting. And that’s without even considering its 4K video capabilities.

In the seven years since the D850 was launched, mirrorless cameras have eclipsed most areas in which DSLRs once held the advantage. For example, the Z8 can shoot faster, autofocus more with more accuracy and precision, across a wider area of the frame and do so while shooting at much faster rates.

But, even though it outshines the D850 in most regards, the Z8 is still based around what we believe is a (significant) evolution of the same sensor, and its reputation still looms large enough for Nikon to explicitly market the Z8 as its “true successor.”

Nikon D850 sample gallery

Sample gallery
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*Actually seven years ago yesterday: we had to delay this article for a day to focus on the publishing the Z6III studio scene: the latest cameras taking precedence over our anniversary content.



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Nikon Z6III added to studio scene, making image quality clear

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Nikon Z6III added to studio scene, making image quality clear


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Photo: Richard Butler

We’ve just received a production Nikon Z6III and took it into our studio immediately to get a sense for how the sensor really performs.

Dynamic range tests have already been conducted, but these only give a limited insight into the image quality as a whole. As expected, our Exposure Latitude test – which mimics the effect of reducing exposure to capture a bright sunrise or sunset, then making use of the deep shadows – shows a difference if you use the very deepest shadows, just as the numerical DR tests imply.

Likewise, our ISO Invariance test shows there’s more of a benefit to be had from applying more amplification by raising the ISO setting to overcome the read noise, than there was in the Z6 II. This means there’s a bigger improvement when you move up to the higher gain step of the dual conversion gain sensor but, as with the Z6 II, little more to be gained beyond that.

These are pushing at the extreme of the sensor’s performance though. For most everyday photography, you don’t use the deepest shadows of the Raw files, so differences in read noise between sensors don’t play much of a role. In most of the tones of an image, sensor size plays a huge role, along with any (pretty rare) differences in light capturing efficiency.

Image Comparison
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As expected, the standard exposures look identical to those of the Z6 II. There are similar (or better) levels of detail at low ISO, in both JPEG and Raw. At higher ISO, the Z6III still looks essentially the same as the Z6II. Its fractionally higher level of read noise finally comes back to have an impact at very, very high ISO settings.

Overall, then, there is a read noise price to be paid for the camera’s faster sensor, in a way that slightly blunts the ultimate flexibility of the Raw files at low ISO and that results in fractionally more noise at ultra-high ISOs. But we suspect most people will more than happily pay this small price in return for a big boost in performance.



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