Connect with us

Camera

Got a new camera? Change these settings before you shoot!

Published

on

Got a new camera? Change these settings before you shoot!


There’s nothing like unwrapping a new camera for the first time.

You may have noticed a recent tsunami of new product launches. From camera bodies to lenses, accessories, software and computers, it seems every manufacturer has something new to hawk. With school graduations, Father’s Day, travel season and world events like the Olympic Games, there are plenty of new cameras vying for your attention.

If you’ve just bought a new camera, we have some tips on key settings to adjust so you can get the most out of your new gear. So before you head for the hills, the studio or a far-flung destination, take a look at these important camera settings first. A few tweaks and adjustments up front can mean the difference between fluid work and frustration.

Also, bookmark this guide for the future. We continually update our guides as we gather more knowledge, respond to changes in industry products, and take in questions from our readers on what you need and want. Let us know in the comments if we missed anything. We’re always here to help bring the joy of photography and video to everyone.

How you set up your menu and customize your buttons and dials is a very personal matter. It depends on what you shoot, which features you use and how you like to work. No matter what you’re focused on, there are a few common settings that all photographers need to get set right straight out of the box.

The Great Menu Expansion

Perhaps the most consistent change in cameras in the digital era is the size and complexity of the menu system. As an example of this growth consider Canon’s first mainstream DSLR, the Canon D30 from the year 2000, whose menu featured a total of 31 items on one long scrolling list. Canon’s recent pro-level R3, on the other hand, offers 433 menu items organized into 8 categories or tabs.

Canon and other manufacturers have done a reasonable job (some better than others) at organizing all these features into relatively logical categories like: Image quality, Playback, AF, and Wireless. However, they give you no clue as to which items you should adjust straight out of the box – which ones are better to turn off or keep on most of the time.

Perhaps the most consistent change in cameras in the digital era is the size and complexity of the menu system.

For this reason, many photographers tweak a few items as they need them and leave the rest of the menu for a time when they have nothing better to do than read a camera instruction manual – which is likely never. They then wind up living with discomfort in their shooting experience that would be easy to fix.

This article provides a short list of must-change items for all photographers. The out-of-the-box factory settings (or worse, the previous owner’s settings) may not have these settings adjusted for your needs. While I could go on all day about this, let’s start with a few hot items you’ll want to adjust on your new camera.

Diopter

Yes, the topic of this article is on menu settings and the first item isn’t in the menu. Point noted, now let’s move on. The diopter is the focus adjustment for your camera’s viewfinder. Somewhere near the eyepiece is a small knurled knob, possibly with plus and minus labels. Turning this knob will adjust lens elements in the viewfinder to adapt the clarity of the view for people with different vision needs.

You’ll see clearly once your diopter is correctly adjusted.

When the diopter is adjusted properly, you’ll have a way better time seeing both your subject and the information displayed in the electronic viewfinder of a mirrorless camera or the focusing screen of a DSLR. If the diopter is slightly off you’ll likely still see a sharp image but your eyes will need to strain to keep everything in focus. A properly adjusted diopter will make viewing comfortable and strain-free.

These little knobs can easily be adjusted by accident and it’s not uncommon to look through your viewfinder and be suddenly shocked at how bad your eyesight has gotten. While some knobs have better locks than others, almost every camera I’ve used has needed this adjusted at the start, and again at various intervals. This is a rather unglamorous way to start the personalization of your camera, but without it the whole world could be a blur to you.

File Format

There is perhaps no setting as important as the file type. We’ll sidestep the whole Raw vs JPEG debate here, and we’ll simply state that whatever you decide is right for you is something you need to set up on your camera right away.

A Raw file, for the newbies out there, contains all the original capture information in an image, far more than the efficient subset contained in a JPEG. It allows you greater leeway in post-processing to recover details from shadows or highlights and to change fundamental aspects like white balance or color. The downside is that the file size is a bit on the big side (compared to JPEG) and requires special software to view and work on the image. While your camera manufacturer provides free software to do so, many people prefer to use popular photo-editing software from companies like Adobe or Capture One.

Whether you value the flexibility of Raw files, or the convenience of JPEG, make sure you’ve picked a file format before heading out the door.

The JPEG file is a small convenient file that can be opened and viewed by pretty much any computer or viewing device made in the last 25 years. The downside to the JPEG is that the file is processed and compressed. While convenient for sharing online and fine for printing unaltered, it lacks the information depth of color and tones that a skilled photo editor would appreciate when working in the digital darkroom.

Thankfully, most camera manufacturers know that file type is an important setting, and it’s usually located at or near the top of the menu. You’ll also often find a shortcut to this feature in the Quick or Function menu or Control grid screen.

You can shoot Raw and JPEG at the same time, but this should only be done if you truly need it. If you have a Raw file you can make a JPEG anytime you want, in any quantity, with any adjustment you like, so long as you have a computer, the right software and the time to do it. The best time to simultaneously shoot both Raw and JPEG is when you have an immediate need for the JPEG and a long-term desire for the Raw.

Thankfully, most manufacturers know that file type is important and it’s usually located at or near the top of most menus.

Get this set right first, and if you change your photography workflow from time to time be sure to come back and revisit it. The current file type status is often displayed in the viewfinder or on the rear screen for easy monitoring.

AF beep, AF lock and AF assist lamp

Cameras tend to have AF beep, AF locked to shutter and AF assist lamp set to be active by default.

There are many reasons to keep them active; perhaps they aid people with color blindness, for instance. It often comes down to how you intend to use the camera and your personal preferences.

Knowing the different ways you can control autofocus can help you adjust the camera to your habits, rather than adjusting your habits to the camera.

To fully understand what is right for you, let’s take a look at what each one does.

Autofocus (AF) beep settings allow for an audible confirmation that what you are trying to use AF on is in focus. It is an additional cue to the visual cue you’ll see when a focus box changes colors to confirm focus. Some users may like the sound or may need the sound if they have trouble seeing the visual color change. Others may feel it is a distraction. DPReview editor Richard Butler says, “Turning off the beep and AF illuminator are the first things I do,” because it’s potentially distracting to others while he’s trying to make images.

“To fully understand what is right for you, examine each setting’s function. In the end, it all comes down to your personal preference.”

The AF assist lamp is a feature that shines a light on whatever you’re framing to help the AF focus. The camera uses this light to have enough light to create enough contrast to help it focus. Here again, it comes down to your personal preference. DPReview editor Shaminder Dulai says he hates it and it’s the first thing he turns off, “I feel like the lamp is like shouting ‘Hey look at me, I’m about to take a picture,’ and it completely takes you out of the headspace of making images and is often annoying to others around you. Since I do documentary work, I aim to be a fly on the wall and earn trust to get to more ‘real’ moments and beeps and lights don’t help me get there.”

Most cameras come from the factory set to activate their AF with a half press of the shutter. Many photographers prefer using a dedicated AF button if they have that option, and we encourage you to try that as well to see if it suits you better.

With a little time spent trying it both ways, you may decide you love the shutter half-press or that you hate it, the key is to be aware of both and to try them for yourself.

Dulai says for him, “The focus being tied to the shutter leaves me fighting the camera and not focused on the story. It’s all preference at the end of the day. I sometimes leave my focus point centered and like to focus, meter and then recompose the image with a dedicated button.” On the other hand, DPReview editor Dale Baskin likes the half press, saying, “I’ve tried switching to back button focus many times over the years, and it just doesn’t work for me. I have no problem shooting fast action sports using the half press method and never miss a beat.”

So, opinions vary even among the DPReview editors. The point is to be aware of what your camera is doing, learn how to try all the options across the settings and see what works best for you.

Card Format

Photos from your camera will likely be stored on a removable memory card, and like any storage area (digital or real) it should be cleared of unnecessary clutter before use. Each camera manufacturer has a slightly different way of communicating with the card and storing images on it. To create a clean, reliable line of communication between camera and card it is highly recommended that you ‘format’ a new card inside the camera before heading out to capture photos.

Formatting your digital storage medium with a new camera ensures they’ll become fast friends.

Be advised that formatting a card will delete all the photos on it, along with any folders, seen or unseen, and will set up a new storage structure and path. Formatting is also recommended when heading out on a new shoot, so long as the photos from the last shoot have been downloaded and backed up first. There’s nothing like starting with a clean slate.

Date and Time

Mundane and trivial to some, the capture date and time of every image is stored in its metadata (extra information that can be viewed by software) and having it correct may potentially save headaches in the future. Many cameras now have simple adjustments for traveling to different time zones and adjusting for daylight saving time so that you don’t need to fiddle with the actual time setting. I’ve found that cameras are not particularly accurate in their timekeeping over the long haul, so if you’re fussy about having exactly the right time stamp on your photos you may need to revisit this feature every few months or so.

Having the correct date and time set on your camera can help you remember when you captured photos.

Copyright Info

Another item in the image metadata that may be beneficial at some point in the future is setting your name and any other pertinent personal info. Be advised that this data can be overwritten by anyone with access to your digital file. This setting is for information that may be helpful to you or others, but it is not in the realm of lock-tight security options.

Adding your name in the copyright field provides a very low level of security; think of it simply as a note that it is you who took the photo, or at the very least an image that came from your camera. This can be convenient if your images have been casually mixed with others and you need to identify the owner or creator.

Embedding copyright information can help identify your photos or even recover your camera.

You can also use this setting to put in specific copyright information like ‘All Rights Reserved,’ to let anyone else with access to the file know what your intentions are. Once again, though, be advised that this can easily be overwritten by the laziest of hackers. A potential use for this area is your contact information, usually in email form. Should your camera be lost or stolen it could provide a link back to you. True, the bad guy won’t care about this, but the honest one who does want to do the right thing will have information on how to contact you.

Firmware updates

Like everything else, today’s cameras are packed with powerful electronics, and increasingly, software is advancing faster than hardware to take advantage of improvements. We recommend looking on your manufacturer’s website to check for any new firmware update that has been issued for your camera and reading up on what they does.

Firmware updates aren’t required but they can sometimes address bugs that help you enjoy it longer.

Some updates are minor, fixing things like a typo in a menu, while others can improve camera performance or add new features. Your camera will still work without the firmware update, so it’s up to you to decide when and if you want to update. But, a word of caution from Dulai, “I never jump on new firmware updates, preferring to wait a few months if possible. This gives me time to research the firmware and time to let any potential bugs surface from the wave of early adopters.”

As an alternative to checking manufacturer websites, virtually all cameras released today have accompanying smartphone apps. These apps can be set to alert you when new firmware is released.

Registering your product and document your serial numbers

This one may seem obvious, but it’s important to call out. Registering your product with the manufacturer may grant you a warranty or other support services; just remember to opt out of any promo e-mails if you don’t want them.

More crucial is that you document your serial number, product name, purchase date and price paid. You don’t have to keep this information anywhere fancy: an e-mail, spreadsheet, or paper journal are all great options. The goal is to have everything documented and saved because if you ever are robbed and need to file a police report or an insurance claim, this is the information you’ll need.

“None of these settings will help you create great photos, but they can make the experience of shooting with your new camera a bit easier.”

Set up and head out

None of these settings will help you create great photos, but they can make the experience of shooting with your new camera a bit easier. Paging through the labyrinth of the menu system isn’t the first choice of activity for a photographer, but trust me, there’s a lot of useful stuff in there. Getting your camera set up specifically for your needs is like getting a custom-tailored suit – it will prepare you for whatever may come and give you confidence when you head out into the world.

Did we miss anything? What settings and adjustments do you make straight out of the box? Tell us in the comments.



Source link

Continue Reading
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Camera

Nikon announces $600 Z 35mm F1.4 – its first F1.4 for Z mount

Published

on

By

Nikon announces $600 Z 35mm F1.4 – its first F1.4 for Z mount


Image: Nikon

Nikon has announced the Nikkor Z 35mm F1.4, its first F1.4 lens for its Z-mount mirrorless system. Until now most of the company’s prime lenses have been F1.2, F1.8 or F2.8.

Interestingly, the Z 35mm F1.4 is not part of the company’s premium ‘S’ line of lenses, and is priced lower than the 35mm F1.8 S, coming to market with a recommended price of $599, rather than the $849 originally asked for the F1.8. We understand this is not the ‘S’ line lens that previously appeared on Nikon’s lens roadmap.

The lens is constructed with eleven elements arranged in nine groups. with two of these being aspherical elements. This doesn’t correspond with any other lenses we could find, which suggests it isn’t an existing lens being re-bodied and re-badged for Nikon, which might have explained the pricing.

The lens uses a stepper motor to drive its autofocus, as most Z-mount lenses do and includes a control ring that can customized to operate a range of functions.

The 35mm can be used as a slight wide-angle lens on full-frame cameras or as a roughly 53mm equiv with one of Nikon’s ‘DX’ APS-C cameras.

The 415g (14.7oz) lens is 75 x 87mm (3.0 x 3.4″) and accepts 62mm filters. Nikon says it will be available in mid July at a recommended price of $599.95.

Press Release:

Fast and affordable: Nikon releases the NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.4, a natural wide-angle lens for the Nikon Z mount


MELVILLE, NY (June 26, 2024) – Today Nikon announced the release of the NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.4, a wide-angle prime lens that is compatible with Z mount full-frame/FX format mirrorless cameras. This fast, versatile lens offers a natural angle of view, popular among street and portrait photographers, with the creative freedom provided by a bright maximum aperture of f/1.4–all at an affordable price.

Not only does the NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.4 allow users to enjoy beautiful soft bokeh and three-dimensional rendering at wide apertures, its versatile 35mm focal length and short minimum focus distance of 10.6 in. (0.27 m) make it ideal for capturing a wide variety of scenes and subjects. From landscapes and street photography to portraits and photos of flowers and pets, photographers and filmmakers will enjoy outstanding sharpness, beautifully-blurred backgrounds and exceptional versatility in low light.

Despite its large f/1.4 maximum aperture the NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.4 is a great “carry everywhere” lens for day-to-day shooting, weighing just 14.6 oz (415 g) and measuring only 3.4 in. (86.5mm)1 in length.

The superior optical performance unique to NIKKOR Z lenses allows for clear images with outstanding clarity including close-up portraits that emphasize the subject with a pleasant background blur. Stopping down the aperture when photographing landscapes realizes incredible sharpness. As a wide-angle prime lens with superior cost performance, the NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.4 supports the capture of a wide variety of scenes and subjects, and will appeal to a wide variety of enthusiast creators.

Primary features of the Nikon NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.4:

  • Beautiful bokeh: Max aperture of f/1.4 allows photographers and filmmakers to achieve smooth, creamy out of focus backgrounds while precisely controlling depth-of-field for ideal subject and background separation.
  • Versatile focal length: The 35mm focal length is close to that of human vision, making it ideal for capturing a wide range of scenes and subjects. On DX format Z cameras, the NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.4 becomes a 52mm equivalent prime lens, close to the classic “standard” 50mm.
  • Close minimum focus: Close focus of just 10.6 in (0.27 m) is ideal for capturing details in food and flowers with a beautifully blurred background.
  • Compact and well-balanced: The NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.4 weighs just 14.6 oz (415 g), making it is easy to carry and comfortable to use for hand-held shooting.
  • Fast and quiet autofocus: The use of a stepping motor (STM) for autofocus ensures fast and quiet autofocus for both stills and video.
  • Clickless control ring: Easily control key exposure settings including aperture, ISO sensitivity and exposure compensation.
  • Suppressed focus breathing: Advanced optical design means the NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.4’s focal length stays consistent during focusing, which is ideal when recording video.2
  • Dust and drip-resistant: Seals throughout the design help prevent dust and water droplets from entering the lens.3

Price and Availability

The new Nikon NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.4 lens will be available in mid July 2024 for a suggested retail price of $599.95.* For more information about the latest Nikon products, including the extensive lineup of NIKKOR Z lenses and the entire range of Z series cameras, please visit Nikonusa.com.

*SRP (Suggested Retail Price) listed only as a suggestion. Actual prices are set by dealers and are subject to change at any time.

1. Distance to end of lens from camera lens mount flange.
2. Focus breathing may be noticeable depending on the distance between the lens and the subject due to the characteristics of the lens.
3. Thorough dust- and drip-resistance is not guaranteed in all situations or under all conditions.

Nikon Nikkor 35mm F1.4 specifications

Principal specifications
Lens type Prime lens
Max Format size 35mm FF
Focal length 35 mm
Image stabilization No
Lens mount Nikon Z
Aperture
Maximum aperture F1.4
Minimum aperture F16
Aperture ring No
Number of diaphragm blades 9
Optics
Elements 11
Groups 9
Special elements / coatings 2 aspherical elements
Focus
Minimum focus 0.27 m (10.63)
Maximum magnification 0.18×
Autofocus Yes
Motor type Stepper motor
Full time manual No
Focus method Internal
Distance scale No
DoF scale No
Physical
Weight 415 g (0.91 lb)
Diameter 75 mm (2.95)
Length 87 mm (3.43)
Sealing Yes
Filter thread 62 mm
Hood supplied Yes



Source link

Continue Reading

Camera

Back to the future: Pentax 17 film camera review

Published

on

By

Back to the future: Pentax 17 film camera review


The Pentax 17 is the first Pentax film camera in two decades. It’s a half-frame camera, meaning it captures two vertical images instead of a single horizontal one on each frame of film. The number ’17’ in the name refers to the width of the 17 x 24mm frame that it captures on standard 35mm film.

Key features and specifications

  • Half-frame image capture (17 x 24mm)
  • 37mm (equiv) FOV F3.5 lens
  • Zone focusing system with 6 zones
  • Circular leaf shutter (F3.5-16)
  • Built-in flash (6m/20ft at ISO100)
  • Optical tunnel viewfinder with frame lines
  • Exposure from 1/350 sec to 4 sec (+ Bulb)
  • Supports films from ISO 50 to ISO 3200

The Pentax 17 will be available in late June at a suggested retail price of $499. A bundle that includes one roll of Ilford HP5 Plus 400 B&W film, one roll of Kodak UltraMax 400 color film, two film processing coupons and a two-year extended warranty (for a total of three years) will sell for $599.

Who it’s for

Before discussing the camera’s features and performance, it’s worth examining who the Pentax 17 is aimed at. Ricoh says it’s seen a renewed interest in film, particularly among young people, an important demographic for any manufacturer. It believes many photographers who take pictures with smartphones want to do something more creative. This includes people who haven’t shot film before and some who haven’t shot film in a long time.

With that context in mind, Ricoh tells us it chose the half-frame format for two important reasons. The first is to mitigate costs; film may be experiencing a resurgence, but prices remain high, particularly when you include both film and processing. By doubling the number of frames on each roll of film, it effectively cuts the cost-per-frame in half.

“Pentax says it wants to keep the camera’s learning curve relatively simple, making it easier for first-time film shooters to get the desired results without requiring much experience.”

The second is that the vertical format more closely aligns with the shooting style many people have adopted for sharing photos on social media platforms.

Additionally, Ricoh says it wants to keep the camera’s learning curve relatively simple, making it easier for first-time film shooters to get the desired results without requiring much experience. As a result, the camera uses programmed exposure modes rather than offering a fully manual shooting experience.

That’s maybe a roundabout way of saying that if you’re looking for a fully manual, full-frame 35mm film camera, the Pentax 17 isn’t it. However, that doesn’t mean you can’t have a lot of fun shooting it.


Body and design

The Pentax 17 is essentially a modern point-and-shoot camera, though it’s a well-built one. It weighs 290g (10.2 oz) without film or battery, and the top and bottom plates are made of magnesium alloy. Much of the middle is made of plastic. Consistent with the camera’s compact style, the grip is relatively small.

In an homage to previous Pentax cameras, the Pentax 17 includes several features borrowed from, or inspired by, earlier Pentax models, one of which is visible on the front: the number 17 in the camera’s logo uses the same font for the digits as Pentax 6×7 cameras from years past.

Another throwback is visible on the top of the viewfinder, with the Asahi Optical Company logo appearing above the Pentax branding. You’ll also find the film plane indicator and the words ‘Film Camera’ here.

The camera’s mode dial is divided into three color-coded sections: blue, white and gold. The blue section has a single Auto mode, in which the camera will make all exposure decisions, including whether or not to fire the flash. The white section includes Program, Slow-speed, bulb modes, and a Bokeh mode that forces the leaf shutter to remain at its widest possible aperture. Selecting any of the modes in the white section turns off the flash.

In contrast, selecting any mode in the gold section will force the flash to fire. It includes a standard Program mode (with flash sync) and a Slow-speed sync mode that allows the shutter to remain open long enough for ambient light conditions.

An exposure compensation dial with a range of ±2EV in 1/3 stop increments provides an added degree of control in situations that could fool the camera’s auto exposure metering, such as taking photos in the snow.

The camera’s shutter button, which is based on the one from the Pentax KP DSLR, is surrounded by the on/off switch. Alongside it, you’ll find the film advance lever and frame counter. We’re told the film winding mechanism is based on the one from the Pentax Auto 110, and the frame counter goes all the way to 72, the maximum number of photos you can take using a roll of 36-exposure film.

The built-in flash also comes from the Pentax KP, though it’s mounted in front instead of using a pop-up mechanism. It’s rated for 6m (20ft) at ISO 100.

When loading film, you’ll need to set the ISO using the ISO dial, which is released by a small black button to the right of the dial. The camera supports films within the ISO range of 50-3200.

Inside the ISO dial is the film rewind crank, another throwback: It’s based on the crank from the Pentax LX, an SLR released in 1980, and we’re told the white arrow markings on the crank are designed to mimic the Pentax Spotmatic SP.

The back of the camera includes a 2.5mm jack that works with the Pentax CS-205 cable release. To enhance the film experience, there’s even a frame to hold the top flap of the film box to remind you of what film is in the camera. Finally, the bottom of the camera has a tripod socket and the film rewind release button.

Lens

The Pentax 17 uses a 25mm F3.5 lens with a leaf shutter, but owning to the camera’s half-frame format, it has an effective 37mm focal length in equivalent terms. It’s supposed to be based on the lens in the Pentax Espio Mini from 1994, and like that camera, it uses a triplet design that features three elements in three groups. It has been updated to include Pentax’s modern HD coating. The smallest aperture is F16.

The lens employs a zone focus system with six available presets: 0.25m, 0.5m, 1.2m, 1.7m, 3m (0.82ft, 1.7ft, 4ft, 5.6ft, 10ft) and infinity. Zones are selected using icons along the top of the lens, with index marks in meters and feet also available below the lens.

The lens includes a 40.5mm filter thread, and since the light meter is located on the front of the lens, it should meter accurately even with a filter attached.

Viewfinder

The most obvious thing you’ll notice when looking through the viewfinder is that it’s vertical, owing to the camera’s half-frame design.

The viewfinder is a simple optical tunnel design. It includes two sets of frame etchings, one for regular photos and one for shooting in macro mode, which corrects for parallax when the camera is close to the subject.

A pair of LED lights sits to the right of the viewfinder to indicate conditions such as insufficient light (which could also indicate that the lens cap is still attached), that the film lever needs to be wound before you can shoot the next frame, or to remind you that you’re in macro mode.

“The most obvious thing you’ll notice when looking through the viewfinder is that it’s vertical, owing to the camera’s half-frame design.”

Helpfully, a pass-through in the viewfinder allows you to see which zone focus icon is currently selected. This allows you to select the focus zone without removing the camera from your eye.

Battery

The Pentax 17 may be the first Pentax camera introduced in quite some time not to include a rechargeable battery, opting for a 3V CR2 lithium battery instead.

According to the spec sheet, a battery should last through 10 rolls of 36-exposure film when using flash for 50% of the photos. However, a Ricoh representative told us that, in practice, most users will likely get double this number if they do not use the flash so frequently.


In use

In many ways, shooting the Pentax 17 is reminiscent of using an old point-and-shoot film camera. But not quite.

Many point-and-shoot film cameras from the last couple of decades of the film era did as much as possible to get film out of users’ way: features like auto-winding to the first frame, automatic film advance between frames, and auto rewind at the end of a roll of film were commonplace. And, of course, most were autofocus. In essence, in an era where every camera shot film, most point-and-shoot cameras aimed to make it possible for people just to point and shoot.

Pentax 17 sample galleryPhotos captured using Kodak Ektar 100 film and processed by The Darkroom with ‘Enhanced’ scanning [2048 x 2905 resolution)

The Pentax 17 takes a hybrid approach. It feels like a point-and-shoot but provides enough tactile cues to ensure that you engage with the film experience. Manually advancing the film to the first frame, cranking the film advance lever between shots, and manually rewinding at the end of the roll are all part of the process. I rather enjoyed the simple action of cranking the film advance lever and using it to anchor my thumb when shooting. As a former film shooter, it felt very natural.

Similarly, zone focusing requires you to stop and evaluate the scene. It’s been a while since I’ve shot using zone focusing, and it took me a little time to get into the groove, but it provided an enjoyable balance between needing to stop to think about my settings and a casual point-and-shoot experience. Zone focusing is pretty simple, and I expect most users will get pretty good at it after shooting a couple of rolls of film.

Kodak Ektar 100

Photo: Dale Baskin

The thing that’s going to jump out to many experienced photographers will be the vertical viewfinder. This can be a bit jarring in a world where most cameras default to landscape view, but I mostly forgot about it within a few minutes and just enjoyed shooting. Pentax anticipates selling many of these cameras to people who came of age shooting on smartphones, and I expect many of those users will feel right at home with the vertical arrangement.

Overall, the camera handles well. The small grip provides a good balance between handling and appearance, and the controls are logical and comfortably laid out. Turning the focus ring on the lens feels less precise than I’d like – I wish it would more definitively click into place when switching between zones – but it’s not a showstopper.

The half-frame approach has one very tangible benefit: with up to 72 exposures on a roll of film, you’re likely to spend less time watching the film counter and more time enjoying the photography experience.


Image quality

Considering the Pentax 17’s half-frame format, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that it doesn’t deliver the same image quality as the larger negatives from a standard 35mm camera (similar to what we see with different sizes of digital sensors). Let’s stipulate that the Pentax 17 isn’t a camera you’re going to buy if absolute image quality is your top priority. Instead, it’s a camera you buy because you’re looking for a particular type of shooting experience.

Overall, image quality met my expectations. The lens isn’t as tack-sharp as the more modern designs found on recent digital cameras, but even if it were, chances are pretty good it would out-resolve most of the film you’re likely to put in the camera. Generally speaking, image quality reminds me of the results you would get from a typical point-and-shoot film camera, which isn’t too surprising considering the lens’ heritage.

Kodak Ektar 100

Photo: Dale Baskin

One of the biggest factors that will impact image quality isn’t the camera itself but the film you use. During my test period with the camera, I used Kodak Ektar 100 film, which produces relatively high contrast and vivid colors. In retrospect, it probably wasn’t the best film stock for a sunny summer day with a lot of contrast, but that’s what I put in the camera. As a result, some of my photos include blown highlights and dark shadows that likely wouldn’t have occurred had I used a film with less contrast.

However, that’s part of the film photography experience: sometimes, you just have to shoot whatever film happens to be in your camera.

How the film is developed can also be a factor. Our film was processed and scanned by a commercial lab, The Darkroom, and included ‘Enhanced’ scans that measure 2905 x 2048 pixels.

I expect most people who seek out the Pentax 17 will do so to share images on social media or make small prints rather than ordering huge enlargements to hang over the fireplace. For those uses, image quality is acceptable. What’s probably more important to these users is the ability to create images with a distinct look different from the highly processed smartphone images most people are used to seeing.


Conclusion

When considering the Pentax 17, it’s essential to manage expectations. Understandably, some design choices, particularly the decision to go with a vertical-first, half-frame format, have been polarizing within the photography community, especially among long-time photographers. In this case, it’s important to consider the product’s target audience.

Film continues to sell, in part due to younger photographers who want to experiment with film photography. It’s a logical demographic for Pentax to go after, and it allows the company to start building relationships with a different generation of users. In that context, a half-frame camera that defaults to vertical shooting makes some sense.

Kodak Ektar 100

Photo: Dale Baskin

However, don’t be misled into thinking the Pentax 17 is only for the Instagram crowd. Sometimes, photography is simply about having fun, and I had a lot of fun using the camera. In fact, one of the things I enjoyed most was the half-frame format. Anyone who has shot film knows that part of the experience is that brief moment of anxiety you experience every time you press the shutter button, hoping each photo is worth the incremental expense. Watching the frame counter tick up and knowing you can go all the way to 72 removes some of that stress.

And those expenses are real. The Darkroom, the commercial lab that processed and scanned our photos, charges around $20 to process and scan a roll of 35mm film from a half-frame camera, which includes online delivery of the scans and negatives returned by post. Adding a set of prints increases that cost by around $10. Prices will vary between labs, but this gives you a ballpark idea of the costs.

At $499, the Pentax 17 will be more than an impulse buy for most people. However, some used point-and-shoots, including the Pentax Espio Mini, routinely sell on the used market for around $250. From that perspective, a new camera with a warranty and a company to back it up could be attractive to buyers who prefer not to roll the dice on used gear.

Should you buy it? If you’re the type of person who hasn’t shot film before, or maybe not in a long time, the Pentax 17 is a good entry point to get the film shooting experience. However, there are a lot of great point-and-shoot film cameras available on the used market, too, though it’s worth noting that many of these have seen their value increase in recent years and may not be the bargain they once were. But, if the idea of a half-frame, semi-manual camera appeals to you, and your expectations for image quality are reasonable, the Pentax 17 is a good option.

What we like

  • Classic looking design
  • Good controls and handling
  • Good balance between manual and automatic control

What we’d like to see improved

  • Some plastic parts don’t live up to overall build quality
  • More precise zone-focus ring
  • Price



Source link

Continue Reading

Camera

Sigma reveals $599 price for Canon RF 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN

Published

on

By

Sigma reveals $599 price for Canon RF 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN


Image: Sigma

Sigma has announced the pricing of its 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN | C lens for APS-C RF-mount Canon cameras.

The RF version will be on sale from mid July 2024 with a recommended retail price of $599, which is a $50 premium compared with the launch prices of the existing versions for Sony E mount, Fujifilm X mount and Nikon Z mount. We’ll have to wait to see whether this trend continues before we can make assumptions about the cost of Canon’s RF-mount licensing.

Sigma says the 18-50mm F2.8 is part of its mount conversion program, so you can arrange to get your existing lenses modified for RF-mount, if you have them. It’ll be interesting to see whether the same is true for the other DC DN primes Sigma has promised, as it may offer a mechanism for owners of EF-M versions to carry their lenses over to the newer Canon mount.

With dimensions of 69 x 75mm (2.7 x 2.9″), the Canon version is around 4mm wider than the original Sony E-mount version and, at 300g (10.6oz), is 10g heavier.

We’re currently in the process of shooting a gallery with the 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN on the Canon EOS R7 and will publish it in the coming weeks.

Launch schedule of SIGMA 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN | Contemporary for Canon RF Mount

A large F2.8 aperture zoom lens that need never leave your camera.
This exceptionally light, bright, and sharp standard zoom for crop-sensor mirrorless cameras is the ultimate workhorse lens.

【Long-awaited Canon RF Mount addition】

SIGMA’s first APS-C size mirrorless dedicated zoom lens, the SIGMA 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN | Contemporary, will now be available for the Canon RF Mount. This addition allows users to enjoy high-performance, and high-quality SIGMA zoom lenses in native mount on their Canon RF Mount system.

A control algorithm including AF drive and communication speed optimization has been developed specifically for Canon RF Mount interchangeable lenses. In addition to realizing high-speed AF, the lens also supports Servo AF and in-camera aberration correction*1. The mount is rubber-sealed to cater for use in a variety of environments.

Mount Conversion Service is available to convert other mounts of SIGMA 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN|Contemporary to Canon RF Mount.

【Features】

1. Large F2.8 aperture and superb image quality

The compact body offers a versatile full-frame equivalent zoom range of 28.8mm to 80mm, a wide aperture of F2.8 throughout the entire zoom range that allows you to enjoy bokeh expressions, and sharp images achieved by the latest optical design technology. With a minimum focusing distance of 12.1cm and a maximum magnification of 1:2.8*2, it allows photographers to take advantage of the compact shooting system, such as shooting close-ups of your subject.

2. Exceptionally compact and lightweight body ideal for mirrorless cameras

The main feature of the SIGMA 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN | Contemporary is its overwhelmingly compact and lightweight body that maximizes the excellent portability and advantages of an APS-C mirrorless camera. Despite its large aperture of F2.8, it is the smallest and lightest in its class*3 boasting a maximum diameter of φ69.2mm, a length of 74.5mm and weight of 300g.*4 This makes the large-aperture standard zoom easy to carry around in daily life.

*1 Available on supported cameras only.
*2 The minimum focusing distance and maximum magnification ratio are both values at the wide end.
*3 As an AF compatible, F2.8 constant aperture standard zoom lens for APS-C (as of June 2024, by SIGMA).
*4 Size and weight measurements given for Canon RF Mount version.



Source link

Continue Reading

Trending

Copyright © 2017 Zox News Theme. Theme by MVP Themes, powered by WordPress.