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Got a new camera? Change these settings before you shoot!

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Got a new camera? Change these settings before you shoot!


There’s nothing like unwrapping a new camera for the first time.

You may have noticed a recent tsunami of new product launches. From camera bodies to lenses, accessories, software and computers, it seems every manufacturer has something new to hawk. With school graduations, Father’s Day, travel season and world events like the Olympic Games, there are plenty of new cameras vying for your attention.

If you’ve just bought a new camera, we have some tips on key settings to adjust so you can get the most out of your new gear. So before you head for the hills, the studio or a far-flung destination, take a look at these important camera settings first. A few tweaks and adjustments up front can mean the difference between fluid work and frustration.

Also, bookmark this guide for the future. We continually update our guides as we gather more knowledge, respond to changes in industry products, and take in questions from our readers on what you need and want. Let us know in the comments if we missed anything. We’re always here to help bring the joy of photography and video to everyone.

How you set up your menu and customize your buttons and dials is a very personal matter. It depends on what you shoot, which features you use and how you like to work. No matter what you’re focused on, there are a few common settings that all photographers need to get set right straight out of the box.

The Great Menu Expansion

Perhaps the most consistent change in cameras in the digital era is the size and complexity of the menu system. As an example of this growth consider Canon’s first mainstream DSLR, the Canon D30 from the year 2000, whose menu featured a total of 31 items on one long scrolling list. Canon’s recent pro-level R3, on the other hand, offers 433 menu items organized into 8 categories or tabs.

Canon and other manufacturers have done a reasonable job (some better than others) at organizing all these features into relatively logical categories like: Image quality, Playback, AF, and Wireless. However, they give you no clue as to which items you should adjust straight out of the box – which ones are better to turn off or keep on most of the time.

Perhaps the most consistent change in cameras in the digital era is the size and complexity of the menu system.

For this reason, many photographers tweak a few items as they need them and leave the rest of the menu for a time when they have nothing better to do than read a camera instruction manual – which is likely never. They then wind up living with discomfort in their shooting experience that would be easy to fix.

This article provides a short list of must-change items for all photographers. The out-of-the-box factory settings (or worse, the previous owner’s settings) may not have these settings adjusted for your needs. While I could go on all day about this, let’s start with a few hot items you’ll want to adjust on your new camera.

Diopter

Yes, the topic of this article is on menu settings and the first item isn’t in the menu. Point noted, now let’s move on. The diopter is the focus adjustment for your camera’s viewfinder. Somewhere near the eyepiece is a small knurled knob, possibly with plus and minus labels. Turning this knob will adjust lens elements in the viewfinder to adapt the clarity of the view for people with different vision needs.

You’ll see clearly once your diopter is correctly adjusted.

When the diopter is adjusted properly, you’ll have a way better time seeing both your subject and the information displayed in the electronic viewfinder of a mirrorless camera or the focusing screen of a DSLR. If the diopter is slightly off you’ll likely still see a sharp image but your eyes will need to strain to keep everything in focus. A properly adjusted diopter will make viewing comfortable and strain-free.

These little knobs can easily be adjusted by accident and it’s not uncommon to look through your viewfinder and be suddenly shocked at how bad your eyesight has gotten. While some knobs have better locks than others, almost every camera I’ve used has needed this adjusted at the start, and again at various intervals. This is a rather unglamorous way to start the personalization of your camera, but without it the whole world could be a blur to you.

File Format

There is perhaps no setting as important as the file type. We’ll sidestep the whole Raw vs JPEG debate here, and we’ll simply state that whatever you decide is right for you is something you need to set up on your camera right away.

A Raw file, for the newbies out there, contains all the original capture information in an image, far more than the efficient subset contained in a JPEG. It allows you greater leeway in post-processing to recover details from shadows or highlights and to change fundamental aspects like white balance or color. The downside is that the file size is a bit on the big side (compared to JPEG) and requires special software to view and work on the image. While your camera manufacturer provides free software to do so, many people prefer to use popular photo-editing software from companies like Adobe or Capture One.

Whether you value the flexibility of Raw files, or the convenience of JPEG, make sure you’ve picked a file format before heading out the door.

The JPEG file is a small convenient file that can be opened and viewed by pretty much any computer or viewing device made in the last 25 years. The downside to the JPEG is that the file is processed and compressed. While convenient for sharing online and fine for printing unaltered, it lacks the information depth of color and tones that a skilled photo editor would appreciate when working in the digital darkroom.

Thankfully, most camera manufacturers know that file type is an important setting, and it’s usually located at or near the top of the menu. You’ll also often find a shortcut to this feature in the Quick or Function menu or Control grid screen.

You can shoot Raw and JPEG at the same time, but this should only be done if you truly need it. If you have a Raw file you can make a JPEG anytime you want, in any quantity, with any adjustment you like, so long as you have a computer, the right software and the time to do it. The best time to simultaneously shoot both Raw and JPEG is when you have an immediate need for the JPEG and a long-term desire for the Raw.

Thankfully, most manufacturers know that file type is important and it’s usually located at or near the top of most menus.

Get this set right first, and if you change your photography workflow from time to time be sure to come back and revisit it. The current file type status is often displayed in the viewfinder or on the rear screen for easy monitoring.

AF beep, AF lock and AF assist lamp

Cameras tend to have AF beep, AF locked to shutter and AF assist lamp set to be active by default.

There are many reasons to keep them active; perhaps they aid people with color blindness, for instance. It often comes down to how you intend to use the camera and your personal preferences.

Knowing the different ways you can control autofocus can help you adjust the camera to your habits, rather than adjusting your habits to the camera.

To fully understand what is right for you, let’s take a look at what each one does.

Autofocus (AF) beep settings allow for an audible confirmation that what you are trying to use AF on is in focus. It is an additional cue to the visual cue you’ll see when a focus box changes colors to confirm focus. Some users may like the sound or may need the sound if they have trouble seeing the visual color change. Others may feel it is a distraction. DPReview editor Richard Butler says, “Turning off the beep and AF illuminator are the first things I do,” because it’s potentially distracting to others while he’s trying to make images.

“To fully understand what is right for you, examine each setting’s function. In the end, it all comes down to your personal preference.”

The AF assist lamp is a feature that shines a light on whatever you’re framing to help the AF focus. The camera uses this light to have enough light to create enough contrast to help it focus. Here again, it comes down to your personal preference. DPReview editor Shaminder Dulai says he hates it and it’s the first thing he turns off, “I feel like the lamp is like shouting ‘Hey look at me, I’m about to take a picture,’ and it completely takes you out of the headspace of making images and is often annoying to others around you. Since I do documentary work, I aim to be a fly on the wall and earn trust to get to more ‘real’ moments and beeps and lights don’t help me get there.”

Most cameras come from the factory set to activate their AF with a half press of the shutter. Many photographers prefer using a dedicated AF button if they have that option, and we encourage you to try that as well to see if it suits you better.

With a little time spent trying it both ways, you may decide you love the shutter half-press or that you hate it, the key is to be aware of both and to try them for yourself.

Dulai says for him, “The focus being tied to the shutter leaves me fighting the camera and not focused on the story. It’s all preference at the end of the day. I sometimes leave my focus point centered and like to focus, meter and then recompose the image with a dedicated button.” On the other hand, DPReview editor Dale Baskin likes the half press, saying, “I’ve tried switching to back button focus many times over the years, and it just doesn’t work for me. I have no problem shooting fast action sports using the half press method and never miss a beat.”

So, opinions vary even among the DPReview editors. The point is to be aware of what your camera is doing, learn how to try all the options across the settings and see what works best for you.

Card Format

Photos from your camera will likely be stored on a removable memory card, and like any storage area (digital or real) it should be cleared of unnecessary clutter before use. Each camera manufacturer has a slightly different way of communicating with the card and storing images on it. To create a clean, reliable line of communication between camera and card it is highly recommended that you ‘format’ a new card inside the camera before heading out to capture photos.

Formatting your digital storage medium with a new camera ensures they’ll become fast friends.

Be advised that formatting a card will delete all the photos on it, along with any folders, seen or unseen, and will set up a new storage structure and path. Formatting is also recommended when heading out on a new shoot, so long as the photos from the last shoot have been downloaded and backed up first. There’s nothing like starting with a clean slate.

Date and Time

Mundane and trivial to some, the capture date and time of every image is stored in its metadata (extra information that can be viewed by software) and having it correct may potentially save headaches in the future. Many cameras now have simple adjustments for traveling to different time zones and adjusting for daylight saving time so that you don’t need to fiddle with the actual time setting. I’ve found that cameras are not particularly accurate in their timekeeping over the long haul, so if you’re fussy about having exactly the right time stamp on your photos you may need to revisit this feature every few months or so.

Having the correct date and time set on your camera can help you remember when you captured photos.

Copyright Info

Another item in the image metadata that may be beneficial at some point in the future is setting your name and any other pertinent personal info. Be advised that this data can be overwritten by anyone with access to your digital file. This setting is for information that may be helpful to you or others, but it is not in the realm of lock-tight security options.

Adding your name in the copyright field provides a very low level of security; think of it simply as a note that it is you who took the photo, or at the very least an image that came from your camera. This can be convenient if your images have been casually mixed with others and you need to identify the owner or creator.

Embedding copyright information can help identify your photos or even recover your camera.

You can also use this setting to put in specific copyright information like ‘All Rights Reserved,’ to let anyone else with access to the file know what your intentions are. Once again, though, be advised that this can easily be overwritten by the laziest of hackers. A potential use for this area is your contact information, usually in email form. Should your camera be lost or stolen it could provide a link back to you. True, the bad guy won’t care about this, but the honest one who does want to do the right thing will have information on how to contact you.

Firmware updates

Like everything else, today’s cameras are packed with powerful electronics, and increasingly, software is advancing faster than hardware to take advantage of improvements. We recommend looking on your manufacturer’s website to check for any new firmware update that has been issued for your camera and reading up on what they does.

Firmware updates aren’t required but they can sometimes address bugs that help you enjoy it longer.

Some updates are minor, fixing things like a typo in a menu, while others can improve camera performance or add new features. Your camera will still work without the firmware update, so it’s up to you to decide when and if you want to update. But, a word of caution from Dulai, “I never jump on new firmware updates, preferring to wait a few months if possible. This gives me time to research the firmware and time to let any potential bugs surface from the wave of early adopters.”

As an alternative to checking manufacturer websites, virtually all cameras released today have accompanying smartphone apps. These apps can be set to alert you when new firmware is released.

Registering your product and document your serial numbers

This one may seem obvious, but it’s important to call out. Registering your product with the manufacturer may grant you a warranty or other support services; just remember to opt out of any promo e-mails if you don’t want them.

More crucial is that you document your serial number, product name, purchase date and price paid. You don’t have to keep this information anywhere fancy: an e-mail, spreadsheet, or paper journal are all great options. The goal is to have everything documented and saved because if you ever are robbed and need to file a police report or an insurance claim, this is the information you’ll need.

“None of these settings will help you create great photos, but they can make the experience of shooting with your new camera a bit easier.”

Set up and head out

None of these settings will help you create great photos, but they can make the experience of shooting with your new camera a bit easier. Paging through the labyrinth of the menu system isn’t the first choice of activity for a photographer, but trust me, there’s a lot of useful stuff in there. Getting your camera set up specifically for your needs is like getting a custom-tailored suit – it will prepare you for whatever may come and give you confidence when you head out into the world.

Did we miss anything? What settings and adjustments do you make straight out of the box? Tell us in the comments.



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Gear of the Year – Richard's choice: Leica D-Lux8

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Gear of the Year – Richard's choice: Leica D-Lux8


When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.

There’s a lot of gloom surrounding cameras and photography, in the past year or so. The devastating impact of smartphones on mass-market cameras seems to be being followed by a wave of AI-generated images that threaten to wash photography away as a creative form, if you believe those prognosticators with half-empty glasses. And yet it’s hard to think of a year in which I’ve found it so difficult to choose a piece of gear to call out, because so many of them have been so good.

Having chosen Nikon’s Z8 last year, the obvious decision this time round would be Canon’s EOS R5 II: a camera that’s almost unbelievably good at almost anything you might ask of it. The Nikon’s Z6III’s performance comes with a small footnote, but overall it’s also sensationally capable and costs over 40% less.

On the lens side of things, Sony has made a usefully small full-frame F2.8 zoom and Sigma has developed what is essentially a full-frame version of its 18-35mm F1.8, creating the world’s first AF F1.8 zoom for full-frame in the process. Then there’s Fujifilm: not content with updating probably the best kit lens on the market (albeit with a loss of speed and reach at the long end counteracting the gain of width at the other), it’s also replaced its premium standard zoom with a much smaller, lighter optic.

The Fujifilm 16-50mm F2.8 R LM WR II would probably be my choice in any other year. Its lightweight re-imagining meant it was small enough for me to take on a five-day hike across North Wales, and helped me assemble one of the best galleries I think I’ve ever shot.

“It’s just exciting to see anyone introduce an enthusiast compact”

And yet instead of any of these worthy winners, I’m going to choose a camera whose merits come with some appreciable caveats and that I’ll spend much of this article appearing to criticize.

Let’s get this straight out of the gate: in many respects the Leica D-Lux8 is refresh of a seven year old camera. And its price tag of $1599 lands somewhere between fanciful and absurd.

And yet, in an age when second-hand Panasonic LX3s often attract 40% of their original price on eBay, despite their wonky skin tones, outdated performance and 2008-vintage batteries, it’s just exciting to see anyone introduce an enthusiast compact.

Leica D-Lux8 top controls
The D-Lux8 has a pleasantly photo-focused interface, with shutter speed, aperture and exposure comp dominating the controls. Yet it doesn’t quite manage to feel like a zoomable X100.

Photo: Richard Butler

And while the D-Lux8 shares the bulk of its hardware with the LX100 II, it gains one of the most photo-focused user interfaces I’ve had the good fortune to use in the seventeen years I’ve been writing about cameras.

It also gains a much less distracting viewfinder, which I also appreciate, and its AF tracking, while not coming close to the standards of modern mirrorless cameras, is also improved.

There’s a nagging doubt whenever I’ve used a recent D-Lux or LX100 of why it doesn’t feel even more special, given its dial layout and aperture ring suggests it should feel like a smaller X100, but with a zoom. Personally I think the added lag of waiting for the motor-driven zoom to respond helps to distance your input from the camera’s reaction. Or it could just be that the photos don’t look as good, thanks to its less sharp lens, deeper minimum depth-of-field and absence of Film Simulation fairy dust.

L1020074
Leica D-Lux8 @ 26mm (58mm equiv) | F2.8 | 1/60 | ISO 800

The D-Lux8’s image quality isn’t always up to the standard of, say, the Fujifilm X100 series, but its portability means you get photos in situations in which you might not have otherwise brought a camera. But, unlike a phone, makes you feel that you played a part in getting the photo.

Photo: Richard Butler

But the 8’s new interface is delightfully shutter speed and aperture focused. There aren’t many custom buttons and you don’t need a great many: it’s a good-looking little camera that focuses your attention on taking photos. And that’s something I’ve really missed.

Maybe there’s still time for another blossoming of enthusiast compacts, now they’re starting to find an audience, retrospectively. Or maybe I just need to accept that my own preferences don’t match those of the wider market.

But even if the D-Lux8 doesn’t herald a new Spring for the serious compact, it’s not a bad note for the category to go out on. Price aside, it’s a lovely little camera.

Leica D-Lux8 sample gallery

Sample gallery
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Canon makes Super35 global shutter sensor available to third parties

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Canon makes Super35 global shutter sensor available to third parties


Canon’s LI5070SA sensor delivers 4K at up to 60p with no rolling shutter, with Canon suggesting ‘Cinema’ as one of its potential applications.

Image: Canon

Canon has made a 4K/60-capable Super35 (∼APS-C) video sensor with global shutter available to third-party buyers.

The 10.3MP sensor added to the product page of its industrial equipment and semiconductor business unit is 27.4 x 15.3mm, making it a 1.34x crop, relative to a full-frame stills camera, but in a roughly 16:9 aspect ratio.

Its 4288 x 2398 pixel count is clearly designed for delivering 4K footage. We’d usually expect Canon to have already offered it in a camera, if it planned to, before offering it to external users.

Canon sold a 4K/60 Super35 ‘GS’ global shutter version of its EOS C700 camera, back in 2017, though available specs suggest its sensor was slightly smaller, so presumably wasn’t the same as the one now being offered to external companies. Notably, Canon claimed its dynamic range was one stop lower than the progressive scan Super35 chip in the regular C700 model. There’s still a chance this new chip will underpin a successor to the C700 GS.

Canon LI7080SA progressive scan super35 sensor
An image of Canon semiconductor’s LI7080SA sensor: a progressive scan Super35 sensor that closely resembles its global shutter cousin.

Image: Canon

At present, we’re not aware of any other consumer camera maker using Canon sensors. Specialist industrial / security camera makers such as Illunis have used its sensors to make high-speed and high-resolution cameras for applications such as aerial photography and machine vision applications, but we’ve not seen its 120MP or 250MP APS-H chips in consumer cameras, including those from Canon itself.

Canon said it was developing a DSLR based on its 120MP sensor, back in 2015. Prototypes based on EOS 5DS bodies appeared at trade shows, but no final product ever emerged.

Canon’s semiconductor business also offers a “full-frame” global shutter sensor. Again this has a roughly 16:9 aspect ratio and proposed uses include microscopy, factory automation and traffic surveillance. This sensor has been available since early 2023.



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Gear of the Year – Mitchell's choice: ThinkTank Retrospective 30 V2

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Gear of the Year – Mitchell's choice: ThinkTank Retrospective 30 V2


The Retrospective 30 V2 is a big ‘ol bag.

The ThinkTank Retrospective 30 V2 is not a new product by any means, but it’s new to me. Earlier this year, I went looking for a camera bag to replace the one I had since high school and landed on the Retrospective 30; the largest option in ThinkTank’s well-known lineup of canvas shoulder camera bags.

While anyone can make a messenger bag with a few dividers and call it a day, it feels like this bag was really designed and refined by and for photographers. All its velcro flaps can be covered or tucked away to silence them if you don’t want to draw attention to yourself while shooting on the street or at an event like a wedding. The top can be zippered closed for maximum protection or left open to let you quickly access gear, and it has what I think is just the right ratio of open space to built-in organization.

Thinktank Retrospective 30 velcro silencers
Some of the velcro patches have covers to keep you from ruining a quiet moment by ripping them open.

Photo: Mitchell Clark

There are also subtle touches that I’ve found really useful: one of the front pockets has a bright red fabric loop that I clip my keys to so I always know where they are, the water bottle pocket can be cinched tight when you’re not using it and there are plenty of places to hook carabiners onto if I need to hang additional gear on the outside of the bag.

I also just like how it looks. The olive green fabric matches the antique-looking metal hardware well.

My favorite thing about this bag, though, is that it’s monstrous. It’s the station wagon – nay, Honda Odyssey – of messenger-style camera bags. I’ve used it to carry two camera bodies, a few lenses, a 14-inch MacBook Pro, an iPad, and a bunch of other bits and bobs like a notebook, an army of SD cards, a Clif bar or two, power adapters and rain jacket. Is that a sign of overpacking? Perhaps, but it’s part of the job; I’m frequently testing out one camera for a review and using another to shoot a sample gallery of some variety.

Retrospective_30_v2_with_four_cameras
It may look like there are three lensed cameras in here – a Nikon Z8, Canon EOS R7 and Panasonic S9 – but there are actually four; a Fujifilm X-M5 is hiding out in a compartment under the Z8’s grip.

Photo: Mitchell Clark

Even when my camera load isn’t as heavy, I’ve found the Retrospective 30 useful as a commuter. I live in Spokane, Washington, but travel to DPReview’s offices in Seattle relatively frequently. Because I keep my entire photographic life in it – my SD cards, various cables, white balance cards and rolling shutter tester – I can just pick it up and go without having to run around making sure everything I’ll need for the next week is packed.

I took a bit of a chance buying this bag: DPReview was sending me to Japan as a freelancer to cover what ended up being the Panasonic S9 announcement, and I knew the Lowepro bag I’d gotten with my first camera in high school was on its very last legs. I hoped to turn reviewing cameras into my full-time job, but I wasn’t 100% sure I was cut out for it.

Mitchell standing with bag
Me, very tired, returning home from Japan.

Photo: Mitchell Clark

If it turned out I wasn’t, the 30 would be way larger than I’d ever need; my personal camera consists of a Fujifilm X-T3 and two lenses, which would get absolutely swallowed by this bag. But if I did end up at DPReview, I worried that a smaller bag might not be able to carry all the gear I assumed I’d be carting around.

I was also concerned about the price at the time: at $240, it’s far from the spendiest bag out there, but I still didn’t feel great telling my wife that I wanted to spend that much on anything when I’d been largely unemployed for the last year – I’d quit my job as a news writer at The Verge in April 2023 to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. I spent some time working at a ski shop after I got back and did various odd jobs, but it’d been a long time since I’d meaningfully contributed to our household’s budget.

But I went for it anyway; the prospect of going on a press trip and juggling cameras in a backpack that’s not at all designed for them seemed like a nightmare. And obviously, it worked out: I’m working at DPReview now, and am reminded pretty much every day that it was a good idea to get something with this much capacity.

Mitchell standing with retrospective 30
Despite its carrying capacity, the Retrospective 30 is a reasonable size to carry around on a photo walk.

Photo: Mitchell Clark

Of course, I have a few nitpicks. No bag is perfect, which is why the market for them is nearly infinite. I haven’t figured out a graceful way to attach a tripod to it, even one as small as the Peak Design Travel model, the main zipper can be a bit hard to start closing if it’s all the way open, and I needed a tutorial video to figure out how to use the included rain cover. I’d rather the bag’s top flap was made out of waterproof material, though the canvas alone has been enough to protect my gear through short walks in light rain – phew!

The bag can also rub a bit uncomfortably on my hip when it’s fully loaded, but I suspect that’s more of a limitation with the messenger bag form factor as a whole. Realistically, if you’re carrying over 7kg (15+lbs) of gear, you should be doing it on your back, not slung over one shoulder.

Despite my complaints, I still love this bag, and I suspect I’ll continue using it for years to come. The same’s true for the job, by the way – and if I’m lucky enough for that to happen, I’ll have the Retrospective 30 as a reminder of where it all began.


Buy Now:

$239 at Amazon

$239 at B&H

$239 at Think Tank




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